Microdermabrasion is a mechanical exfoliation treatment that uses a diamond-tipped wand or fine aluminum oxide crystals to remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells. A single session averages $136, according to 2023 statistics from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS). Sessions last 30 to 45 minutes, require no downtime, and are available at both day spas and dermatology offices.
What Is Microdermabrasion?
Microdermabrasion is one of the most commonly performed non-invasive skin treatments in the US. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) categorizes it as a superficial resurfacing procedure that works on the epidermis, the skin's outermost layer, without penetrating the dermis below.
The treatment removes the stratum corneum, the dead-cell surface layer that accumulates and contributes to dull skin tone, rough texture, and mildly clogged pores. Unlike chemical peels, microdermabrasion achieves this through physical abrasion rather than chemical dissolution.
Crystal vs Diamond Microdermabrasion: How Each Works
Two device types are in common use at spas and clinics:
| Method | How it works | Crystal residue risk | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Diamond-tip | Abrasive diamond surface + suction vacuum | None | Face, sensitive areas near eyes |
| Crystal | Aluminum oxide crystals propelled at skin + suctioned away | Low but possible | Body areas away from eyes/mouth |
Diamond-tip devices have become the standard at most US spas, according to provider trend data reported by the Associated Bodywork and Massage Professionals (ABMP). The diamond tip delivers consistent abrasion depth without the risk of loose crystal particles. Crystal systems remain in use but are increasingly found only at older clinics or for body treatments.
What Skin Concerns Does Microdermabrasion Address?
Microdermabrasion works at the surface level of the skin. The AAD and provider consensus indicate it can improve the appearance of:
- Dull, uneven skin tone from accumulated dead cell buildup
- Mild congestion and non-cystic blackheads
- Fine lines and superficial textural irregularities in the outer skin layer
- Mild sun damage and superficial age spots
- Uneven post-acne texture (not deep scarring)
Microdermabrasion does not reach the dermis, where deeper wrinkles, severe acne scarring, and significant hyperpigmentation originate. For concerns at that depth, a chemical peel or microneedling reaches further. For a direct comparison of which treatment addresses which concern, see microneedling vs chemical peel.
Benefits of Microdermabrasion: What the Evidence Shows
Peer-reviewed research on microdermabrasion is more limited than for deeper treatments, but the available evidence supports a consistent finding: it improves skin texture and tone at the surface level without the recovery time associated with medium or deep chemical peels.
A 2016 review published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that patients consistently reported improved skin smoothness and radiance after a series of microdermabrasion treatments. The same review noted that improvement in wrinkle depth or acne scarring required multiple sessions and was more modest than patients sometimes expect from marketing materials.
The AAD notes that microdermabrasion is one of several effective superficial resurfacing options, with the practical advantage of minimal downtime and immediate return to normal activity.
What microdermabrasion can and cannot do
Microdermabrasion improves surface texture and mild congestion consistently. It does not treat deep acne scars, moderate-to-severe hyperpigmentation, or significant wrinkles -- those concerns require treatments that penetrate the dermis. Manage expectations at the consultation: ask your esthetician specifically which concerns the treatment addresses for your skin type.
What to Expect Before, During, and After Your Session
Before: Arrive with clean, makeup-free skin. Most providers ask you to stop using retinol and exfoliating acids for three to five days before a session to reduce the risk of over-sensitizing the skin surface. If you have a history of cold sores or herpes simplex, tell your provider -- the abrasion can trigger an outbreak, and antiviral medication is sometimes recommended proactively.
During: The session begins with a thorough cleanse. The provider moves the handpiece across your skin in short, overlapping passes. Suction is applied simultaneously to remove the exfoliated cells and crystals (in crystal systems). You will feel consistent pressure and a vacuuming sensation. The provider typically makes two to three passes over each area. Total treatment time is 30 to 45 minutes.
After: Your skin will appear pink and feel tight immediately following treatment. This resolves within a few hours for most people. The provider will apply a moisturizer and sunscreen before you leave. The AAD recommends SPF 30 or higher daily for at least one week after microdermabrasion, as the freshly exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage. Avoid retinol, glycolic acid, and physical scrubs for at least three days.
Who Should Not Get Microdermabrasion?
The AAD advises avoiding microdermabrasion if you have:
- Active acne with open or inflamed lesions (the abrasion can spread bacteria and worsen breakouts)
- Active rosacea flare-up (flushing and capillary sensitivity are aggravated by abrasion)
- Open wounds, cold sores, or herpes simplex outbreaks on the treatment area
- Keloid scarring history (abrasion can stimulate abnormal scar tissue formation)
- Recent use of isotretinoin (Accutane) -- wait at least six months after completing the medication
- Radiation therapy to the face within the past year
Talk to a professional before booking if you have a skin condition
If you have active acne, rosacea, a history of keloid scarring, or are on Accutane or a retinoid prescription, consult your dermatologist before scheduling microdermabrasion. Proceeding without clearance can worsen these conditions. A brief consultation -- sometimes available by phone with the provider -- is worth the extra step.
Microdermabrasion vs Microneedling: A Quick Comparison
Both treatments improve skin texture, but they work at different depths and serve different concerns:
| Attribute | Microdermabrasion | Microneedling |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanism | Surface abrasion (epidermis only) | Micro-punctures (reaches dermis) |
| Average cost per session | $136 (ASPS) | $200-$700 (provider data) |
| Downtime | Minimal (redness up to 4 hours) | 24-72 hours of redness and peeling |
| Best for | Surface texture, mild congestion, dull tone | Acne scars, wrinkles, collagen stimulation |
| Provider type | Day spa or medical spa | Medical spa or dermatology office |
| Sessions typically needed | 5-10 initial series | 3-6 initial series |
For a full comparison including which skin concerns each addresses and recovery expectations, see our guide to facial vs chemical peel and the dedicated comparison at microdermabrasion cost.
Who Performs Microdermabrasion?
At a day spa, microdermabrasion is performed by a licensed esthetician who has completed state-mandated esthetics training (typically 260 to 1,500 hours depending on the state) and additional device training for the specific microdermabrasion system used. No physician license is required for superficial microdermabrasion at a day spa in most US states.
At a dermatology office or medical spa, the treatment may be performed by a licensed esthetician, medical assistant, or nurse under physician supervision. Physician-supervised medical spas may also offer stronger or deeper resurfacing protocols not available at day spas. For a full breakdown of what each provider type offers and what credentials to look for, see our day spa vs medical spa guide.
What to ask before booking
Ask the provider two questions before booking: (1) Which device do you use -- crystal or diamond-tip? (2) How many passes will you do on my first session? A reputable provider will reduce pass count on the first visit to calibrate to your skin's response before increasing intensity on follow-up visits. If a provider does not ask about your skin history or current product use, that is a flag.
What Does Microdermabrasion Cost?
The ASPS reports a national average of $136 per session for microdermabrasion, based on 2023 surgeon and med-spa pricing data. This figure covers the base treatment without add-ons. In practice, day spa pricing ranges from $80 to $200 per session, with dermatology offices and medical spas running from $100 to $250.
Package pricing -- three to ten sessions booked upfront -- typically discounts the per-session rate by 10 to 20 percent. For the full pricing breakdown by provider type, treatment area, and package options, see our dedicated microdermabrasion cost guide.
What microdermabrasion is and what it realistically delivers
Microdermabrasion removes the outermost dead skin layer using a diamond tip or crystals, improving surface texture, mild congestion, and dull tone. Sessions average $136 per the ASPS and take 30 to 45 minutes with no downtime. It does not treat deep acne scars or significant hyperpigmentation. The AAD flags active acne, rosacea, and Accutane use as contraindications. Ask your provider which device they use and how many passes to expect on a first session before booking.
Frequently asked questions
Is microdermabrasion painful?
Microdermabrasion is not painful for most people. The sensation is commonly described as a mild scratching or suction feeling, similar to a rough cat tongue moving across the skin. Minor redness or tightness afterward is normal and typically resolves within 24 hours. Sensitive skin types may experience more noticeable post-treatment pinkness.
How long does a microdermabrasion session take?
A standard facial microdermabrasion session takes 30 to 45 minutes, including cleansing and a moisturizer or SPF application at the end. Sessions treating larger body areas, such as the chest or back, can run up to 60 minutes. Most providers recommend scheduling 10 to 15 minutes of extra time for an intake consultation at the first appointment.
What should you avoid after microdermabrasion?
After microdermabrasion, the AAD advises avoiding direct sun exposure for at least one week and applying SPF 30 or higher daily. Avoid exfoliating scrubs, retinol, and alpha hydroxy acid products for at least three days following treatment, as the skin surface is more sensitive. Swimming in chlorinated pools is best avoided for 24 to 48 hours.
How many microdermabrasion sessions do you need?
Most providers recommend a series of five to ten sessions spaced two to four weeks apart for sustained improvement in skin texture or fine lines, based on esthetician guidance and ASPS practice norms. A single session is sufficient for a pre-event skin refresh. Monthly maintenance sessions are typical after an initial series is completed.
Is crystal or diamond microdermabrasion better?
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion is more precise and does not risk crystal residue in the eyes, ears, or open skin, making it the preferred method at most contemporary spas and dermatology offices. Crystal microdermabrasion uses aluminum oxide particles and is effective but has largely been replaced by diamond-tip devices. The AAD does not formally prefer one over the other.
Who should not get microdermabrasion?
The AAD advises against microdermabrasion for anyone with active acne, rosacea flare-ups, open wounds, herpes outbreaks, or keloid scarring, as the abrasion can worsen these conditions. Isotretinoin (Accutane) users should wait at least six months after finishing the medication before undergoing any exfoliation treatment. Consult your dermatologist if you have a skin condition before booking.